4 November 2019 | 4 min read

Head To Bylakuppe And Discover A Piece Of Tibet In Coorg


The Sera Jey Monastic University is a close resemblance to the monastery built in Lhasa {the capital of Tibet} in the 15th century. But Sera Jey’s prayer flays are not fluttering over the mountainous terrain of Tibet but are spread across the fields of Bylakuppe, a cluster of villages in Mysore district, which is today a part of Karnataka.

The monastery built-in 1970 is located close to the border of Coorg and was constructed on land granted by the Maharaja of Mysore. In 1959, tens of thousands of Tibetans came to India seeking refuge from Chinese occupation in their homeland. Although they initially found themselves in North Bengal, they soon began to spread to other settlements across the country. The town of Bylakuppe was carved here by the pioneering monks in the late 1960s and is today is the largest Tibetan settlement in India followed by Dharamshala.

Bylakuppe is today divided into the Old Camp area of Lugsum Samdupling and the New Camp of Dickyi Larsoe. Various monasteries are spread across both these settlements, and they encompass the four traditions of Buddhism, namely Kagyudpa, Gelukpa, Nyingma, and Sakya.

Monasteries, Fields And Views

Monastries - Live More Zone

One of the town’s commercial areas, Camp Road, is always bustling with activity. Although there is not a single yak or shepherd in sight, it looks distinctly Tibetan. Monks in small cafes drink tea, eat momos, and dig into delicious bowls of thupkas while Buddhist chants and Tibetan pop music float in the air. There are also small shops that sell little knick-knacks and provisions like singing bowls, handicrafts, aluminum tea kettles, and woolens. The only sign that gives away the fact that you are in South India is the Kanada speaking auto drivers, the flat fields in-between misty hills, and trilingual banners {namely English, Kannada, and Tibetan} honoring the Dalai Lama. What more is that you will be surprised to hear Tibetan women talking in chaste Kannada or the Kodava language, as they go about doing their business in the local markets.

Local transport in the town is, however, restricted only to autos, although that provides you ample opportunities for quiet walks around the village pathways and fields. One of these routes leads to the famous Golden Temple that is located in Camp 4 and is a part of the Namdroling Monastery. Built as a small bamboo structure by the Holiness Penor Rinpoche in 196, the Namdroling Monastery only had ten monks in the beginning. Today it is home to over 8,000 monks and a gigantic gilded Buddha, which was consecrated in 1999 by Dalai Lama and serves the spiritual needs of the entire community. During the month of Losar {or Tibetan New Year}, the monastery comes alive with various performances and ceremonies, including masked dances.

Inside the monastery, there are three enormous gold plated statues of Buddha Shakyamuni {60 feet}, Guru Padmasambhava {58 feet}, and Buddha Amitayus {58 feet} that are set against a backdrop of intricate murals. The sculptures also contain small statues, scriptures, relics of the masters, and clay stupas. It’s the perfect setting for some quiet introspection and solitude.

Bylakuppe is another world, and if you let it, its serenity will quietly slip into your heart and mind. Highly recommended, especially if you are planning to travel to Coorg or looking for an offbeat getaway in South India.

Bylakuppe scenery - Live More Zone

Where is Bylakuppe located

– Located in Mysore district in south Karnataka, Bylakuppe is 230 km southwest of Bengaluru. The closest town is Kushalnagar.

Best time to visit Bylakuppe

– The time between June and March is best as temperatures are between 20-22 degrees Celsius. Summers {April to May}, along with festive time like Losar, Buddha Jayanti, and Dalai Lama’s birthday {6 July} tend to be crowded, although they offer a unique experience.

How to Reach

– The nearest railway station is Mysore, which is 85 km {1.5 hours} away. Although Mysuru does have an airport, the easiest way to get here is by flying to Bengaluru and then taking a cab/bus to Mysore. Flight tickets between Mumbai and Bengaluru start at INR 2,000 while from Delhi they start at INR 3,500. Book tickets here.

Also, KSRTC and other travel companies run buses from Bengaluru to Kushalnagar. From Kushalnagar, one can take an auto to Bylakuppe, which is around 8 km {or approx 15 minutes} away.


  • Most monasteries are open from 8 AM -5 PM
  • Restaurants close at 7 PM so make sure you come early
  • Pack a torch and a basic medical kit
  • Leave shoes and ringing mobiles outside the main halls
  • Turn prayer wheels and circle shrines in a clockwise direction only with your right hand
  • Drinking alcohol and smoking are frowned upon and best avoided
  • On Wednesdays, only vegetarian food is served at Tibetan restaurants

Stay – To stay overnight in the Tibetan camps, foreigners require a PAP {Protected Area Permit}, which is generally valid for 12 months. Make sure you apply 3-6 months before. Indians don’t need permits.


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